01/12/2023 - 05/12/2023
We took our motorhome over the Waitakere Ranges for three days with friends at their home in North Piha on Auckland's West Coast. The weather wasn't great but we managed to dodge the rain showers to walk on the beach.
Spent more time with our friend Karen back in Auckland and finally escaped from Auckland after a five hour wait for our replacement widscreen to be fitted.
We left late in the afternoon of Tuesday 5th travelling along the East Coast Road through Clevedon and Kawakawa Bay to stop for the night at Kauri View Farm, Whakatiwai.
06/12/2023
We were heading towards the Coromandel Peninsula via Miranda after a short walk on the beach at Ray's Rest Camping Reserve, a popular bird spotting location on the Firth of Thames. Mainly a mix of Black and Variable Oystercatchers, Gulls, White Faced Herons and possibly Godwits on this occasion, wading in the tidal mud.
We would be isolated at the northern tip of the Coromandel Peninsula so we made sure we were prepared and well stocked in Thames. Following this we set forth on the twisting, turning and narrow Thames Coast Road. Not in any particular hurry, we stopped at Waiomu reserve for a break and stayed for the night.
There was a large Pohutukawa tree at the reserve with the most extensive aerial roots we have ever seen. These aerial roots, known as adventicious roots can sprout on almost any part of a Pohutukawa tree. They may not reach the ground but can absorb moisture from the air. Alternatively they may reach ground level where they attach to the substrate to provide support or collect nutrients.
This heavily bearded Pohutukawa tree looked like it belonged at Hogwarts Castle or in a Lord Of The Rings movie.
07/12/2023
Our intended destination for the day was Coromandel township and as we motored along the coast we were treated to some magnificent scenery.
We found Coromandel to be a quaint little town which was like a step back in time with general stores and small retail businesses in well maintained old buildings lining the main street. It was refreshing not to see multinational corporate fast food outlets or large brightly coloured retail barns.
With the afternoon weather partly cloudy and mild temperatures, we took to the hills on the Kauri Block Walkway, where we came upon a sign at the side of the path. The sign explained that 600 Kauri trees had been planted in the Autumn of 2011 dedicated to the courage of the people of Christchuch following the earthquakes of 2010 and 2011 and to honour those who perished. We found this gesture very moving, especially as we live in Christchurch.
08/12/2023
December is the month of red in New Zealand with the flowering of the Pohutukawa trees, known as the New Zealand Christmas Tree. These trees are abundent on the Coromandel Peninsula, particularly in the coastal areas, forming an almost continual strip up the western coast of the peninsula. This year the flowering is magnificent with the intense red blooms everywhere.
Today we made the journey of about 65 kilometres from Coromandel township to Port Jackson at the northern tip of the peninsula, then on to Fletcher Bay at the end of the road. Roughly half of this distance from Colville township was on a narrow, winding gravel road with very steep drop offs to the sea below in some places. The views more than made up for this and our first sighting of Port Jackson with Great Barrier Island in the distance across the Colville Channel was breathtaking.
Fletcher Bay feels remote and isolated, enclosed by rocky headlands on both sides, with a sand and fine gravel beach. The grassed campsite extends right to the beach head from where Flat Top Island is visible a short distance offshore.
We climbed up onto the eastern headland where we watched a ship passing Flat Top Island as it left the waters of the Hauraki Gulf motoring through the Colville Channel into the Pacific Ocean.
The day finished with the pastel colours of a clear sky sunset illuminating the eastern sky.
09/12/2023
Following an early walk on the beach, we departed Fletcher Bay returning 7 kilometres back to Port Jackson. Travelling in the opposite direction to yesterday we were presented with an excellent view of Cape Colville, which is the most northern tip of the Coromandel Peninsula and the north eastern boundary of Port Jackson.
Our campsite was right at the beach head with expansive views of the 2 kilometre long sandy beach from our back window.
Also enjoying this spectacular beach were quite a few Dotterels. These little birds appear to be quite common on the northern beaches.
10/12/2023 - 11/12/2023
After two nights at Port Jackson it was time for us to leave this wonderful part of New Zealand. Yesterday there was one thing left on our tick list. So we walked to the north eastern end of the beach where we joined the Muriwai Walkway. This spectacular walk follows the ridge line from the beach to to meet the Fletcher Bay road before returning back to the beach. The views of the coastline below are rugged and beautiful as you walk along the very narrow ridge line with precipitous drops on the seaward side. For this reason there are warnings against attempting this walk in strong winds. Leaving Port Jackson with the wind strengthening, we had an uneventful drive back to Coromandel township.
My curiosity had been aroused by a small monument on the side of the road I had caught a glimpse of as we drove back into Coromandel. Naturally we had to investigate closer. So after a walk of about a kilometre and a half we arrived at at the the monument in question. The inscription on the bronze plaque read: The First Gold Found In NZ Was Discovered In This Area By Mr Charles Ring In 1852. He was rewarded one hundred and fifty pounds for his find.
12/12/2023
Leaving Coromandel township to cross the Penisula bound for Whitianga we experienced very strong westerly winds at saddle lookout, making it hard to stand up.
It had been almost forty years since we had been on the Coromandel Peninsula so we took the side road to Opito Bay where we used to stay with friends at their holiday house. There were many more holiday homes than we remembered but Opito Bay was still very beautiful.
On our way we passed through Otama Bay which also boasts a lovely sweeping golden sand beach.
From there we continued on to Whitianga to a very windy afternoon and night.
13/12/2023
Today we wanted to visit Hahei and Hot Water Beach as we travelled down the eastern coast of Coromandel Peninsula, which required a side trip from the Whitianga to Tairua road. Hahei is a popular and large settlement and although it has very nice beach with views of the many offshore islands, it was far too populated for our liking. Just like another suburb.
Hot Water Beach we knew was a popular tourist attraction where geothermal hot water percolates up through the beach sand to be accessible at low tide. Just how popular we couldn't have imagined. Around 150 people had gathered around the two small vent areas of about 50 square metres total, digging pools in the beach to soak in and jostling for a share of the available hot water.
We satisfied ourselves by wriggling our feet into the hot sand, being careful not to scold our feet as the geothermal water can reach temperatures of 64°C. The temperature can be moderated by mixing cold sea water with the hot spring water.
As we were walking back to our vehicle along the beach a pod of dolphins and a group of surfers were sharing the water close to each other as they went about their day.
Our day finished at Tairua where we parked at the golf club for the night.
14/12/2023
Before departing from Tairua we climbed the Mount Paku Summit Walk to the lookout atop this ancient volcanic peak. Panoramic views of Tairua harbour, Pauanui and it's long golden beach, the many offshore islands and the eastern Coromandel Peninsula coast greeted us at the lookout.
With no further stops planned, our next destination was Dickey Flat DOC Campsite, after passing through Waihi. This is a pleasant campsite beside the Waitawheta River offering walking and swimming opportunities. We occupied our afternoon walking downstream beside the river to the Crown Mines historic site at Karangahake Gorge and back to Dickey Flat. A distance of eight kilometres over swing bridges and through tunnels following the relics of an old water pipeline.
15/12/2023
Our plan for today was to visit the Karangahake Gorge historic sites where we had walked to the previous day. On our way from Dickey Flat campsite we passed the pretty Owharoa Falls.
Upon reaching the Karangahake Gorge car park we crossed the Ohinemuri River swing bridge before we set off on part of the Karangahake Gorge Historic Walkway. The Rail Tunnel Loop walk takes in two disused railway bridges across the Ohinemuri River connected by an 1100 metre long former railway tunnel before returning back alongside the river to the starting point.
We completed our visit by viewing the ruins and relics of the Crown Mines where up to five quartz crushing batteries had operated to extract gold from the mined rock. The Windows Walk, decaying buildings, tunnels and small guage railways were all part of our experience.
The Crown Mines pioneered the first commercial cyanide treatment plant in the world for extraction of gold and silver from the fine tailings left after the initial screening processes. The Crown Mines recovered a total of 351,736 ounces of gold and silver.
Further up the Ohinemuri River opposite Waikino village we walked amongst the ruins of the Victoria battery. This was by far the largest gold ore crushing plant in New Zealand and operated from 1898 until 1952. Very visible on this site is the cyanide tank plant.
Our overnight stay was at Waihi Beach where a swim in the sea finished off a hot day.
16/12/2023 - 17/12/2023
We left Waihi Beach today and made our way to Rotorua to spend time with friends for a couple of days. This closed the loop of our journey around the top half of the North Island.
18/12/2023
The central North Island is a region well known for geothermal activity and we had decided to focus our attention on geothermal features as we made our way south over the next two days. There are several commercial thermal areas for which you are obliged to part with not insubstantial amounts of money to gain access to view these wonders. Our goal was to investigate what we could see for no cost, although we had booked ourselves into Waikite Valley thermal pools and campground for the night.
Travelling along route 5 from Rotorua our first stop, just off the main road, was Lake Rotowhero, warm lake. This dumbell shaped lake about 200 metres wide and long was indeed warm. As warm as a nice comfortably hot bath and although it is reported to be safe to swim in the lake, we didn't. There was layer of scum around the edges of the lake which we found unenticing. If you continue along the gravel access road you will reach the Kerosene Creek hot water stream, we didn't.
A further 2 kilometres along route 5 is the turn off to Waiotapu Mud Pool. This 50 metre by 70 metre pool is filled almost entirely with boiling mud. It was bubbling very gently in some parts and quite explosively in others. This was a surreal experience, in fact quite mesmerising. Both these attractions are free.
However, the highlight of the day was the Waikite Valley Hot Pools. This complex consists of six pools of varying sizes and temperatures, plus private tubs all supplied by a constant stream of natural hot water.
It was the source of this hot water that fascinated us. A short walk from the pools along a board walk with information placards took us to Te Manaroa Spring, New Zealand's largest boiling water spring. Delivering 40 to 50 litres per second of water at 99°C, day and night. Such energy was awe inspiring.
Needless to say we took advantage of the extended access to the hot pools for campsite patrons after public admission closed.
19/12/2023
The opportunity to have an early morning soak in one of the hot pools before breakfast was not passed up. On the move again heading for the Craters of the Moon geothermal walk, part of the Wairakei geothermal field. Promoted enthusiastically as a geothermal wonder, this tourist attraction fell well short of our expectations. Completing the 45 minute loop walk amongst this area of geothermal steam vents or fumeroles, left us underwhelmed. Considering the geothermal attractions we had experienced yesterday, mostly free, we felt the Craters of the Moon was not worth the entry price. Save your money.
The always impressive Huka Falls was our next destination. Crowded with tourist coaches and people, we made our visit short. The power of nature was once more on display here as the Waikato River rushes through a narrow and shallow channel in the volcanic rock bed at the rate of 220,000 litres per second before cascading 11 metres over the falls into the turbulent pool below.
Onward to Turangi for a couple of days fishing starting in the afternoon at Lake Kuratau.
20/12/2023 - 21/12/2023
Trout fishing at Lake Otamangakau had been on my tick list for a while. My success with my fly fishing rod while touring the North Island had been pretty dismal, but my perseverance was rewarded at Lake Otamangakau with 9 pound and 8 pound brown trouts landed. Both these beauties were returned to the lake to spawn the next generation. I hooked but lost three other good sized fish. However I left the lake happy.
Fishing with the view of the western side of Mounts Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu was idyllic.
22/12/2023
We were now progressing south in earnest. Across the volcanic plateau of the central North Island, through Taihape, often referred to as the Gumboot Capital of the World - to which there is a corrugated iron sculpture beside the main through road - and as far as Mangaweka. Here we crossed the Rangitikei River to follow the Manawatu Scenic Route through picturesque hill country to our stop for the night at Bartletts Ford campsite beside the Oroua River.
23/12/2023
Our focus for today was driving directly to Otaki Beach to spend Christmas with our family at our daughters house. We will resume our adventure in the new year.
24/12/2023 - 31/12/2023
Christmas season spent with family and friends.
We took time to walk along the Camborne Walkway beside Porirua Harbour in Wellington. We were fascinated by the forty brightly painted boat sheds / houses built on piles over the water.
Merry Christmas
from Otaki Beach
