01/03/2022
A short move from Sawyers Bay to Outram Glen to walk the Outram Glen to Lee Stream Track. A peaceful walk through native bush beside the Taieri River to it’s confluence with Lee Stream. About nine kilometres return with a couple of steep stretches but quite achievable.
02/03/2022
Departed from Outram Glen bound for Central Otago via Middlemarch and upon reaching the Maniototo Plain and after fishing in the upper Taieri River we parked at Waipiata Domain for the night. Waipiata is located on the Central Otago Rail Trail with the pub across the road being a popular stop. Nothing much more to report today.
03/03/2022
Drove to Naseby this morning. A town with many lovingly restored old buildings.
However, we decided to move on through Ranfurly to the town of St Bathans, originally named Dunstan Creek, and it’s Blue Lake. The remarkable Blue Lake is a testament to man’s endeavour in the quest for gold. From 1873, known as the Kildare Hill Gold Claim, it was mined by hydraulic sluicing, reducing a 120 metre high hill to a 68 metre depression, which is now filled with natural run off water. Mining finally ceased in 1932 due to fears that continued sluicing would undermine this little historic town.
This quaint little town and it’s many restored buildings is popular with tourists, particularly the Vulcan Hotel built in 1882, formerly named the Ballarat Hotel.
After a dip in the lake on this typically hot Central Otago late Summer day, we spent the night at the St Bathans domain campsite.
04/03/2022
Busy day today. Leaving St Bathans behind, we proceeded to the settlement of Lauder, through which the Otago Central Rail Trail passes. For the first time in almost four weeks we removed our dusty spider infested bicycles from their rack on the back of our motorhome. Peddling off into the Poolburn Gorge we were bound for Auripo Station over looking the Ida Valley, returning to Lauder. In our opinion, this eleven kilometre ride each way, crossing two viaducts and passing through two tunnels, is the most interesting and best section of the Otago Central Rail Trail. Add to this the rugged Central Otago landscape dominated by schist stone and this cycle ride is a real winner.
Our final destination for the day was a return to one of our favourite locations, but one of the most demanding to get to, with the final very rough and dusty twelve kilometres taking us forty minutes to negotiate. Poolburn Reservoir is a three hundred hectare irrigation storage lake supplying the Ida Valley. Formed in the Great Depression years partly to provide employment, it is one of many similar Depression era reservoirs in Central Otago. A remarkable landscape of tussock, schist rock formations, water, rocky islands and baches. It is a captivating place that draws you back despite being bleak and exposed to the weather at eight hundred metres above sea level. The only plants taller than the tussocks are Giant or Golden Speargrass, commonly known as Spaniards. What appears to be shrubs and trees in the distance are in fact schist rock formations, as far as the eye can see. It was great to return to this special place.
05/03/2022
An eerie mist surrounded us this morning before it cleared to a sunny day after two or three hours.
We spent another two hours wandering along the shore of the reservoir and through the grass and tussocks before heading back to our motorhome and departing for Butchers Dam free camping area. Another of the Depression era irrigation water reservoirs, Butchers Dam is a peaceful, picturesque overnight stop. However, below it’s tranquil waters lies the Butchers Gully Hotel which succumbed to the rising water behind the dam in 1937.
06/03/2022
Another day, another dam. This time we skirted the shore of Conroys Dam to access the DOC Conroys Creek Historic Sites Reserve loop track. This walk up the valley alongside the creek takes you to relics of the gold mining days at Conroys Gully. Tailings and sluicing sites along with a well preserved stone shelter under a rock overhang and other rock dwellings give you an idea of the living conditions the early European and Chinese gold miners endured in this harsh environment. A very good walk, well worth the time taken.
Pausing as we left to admire the engineering of the dam itself, which supplies irrigation water to the Earnscleugh orchards, we made our way to a camping ground in Alexandra to catch up on domestic chores and hunker down for forecast bad weather.
07/03/2022
Today we moved south down the Clutha River Valley, across the top of the Roxburgh dam, one of two hydro electric dams on the Clutha River, then the few kilometres to Pinders Pond. This camping area is yet another water filled hole in the ground resulting from past gold mining activity. Having read about Pinders Pond many times, we were keen to see it for ourselves and we weren’t disappointed. Situated beside the mighty Clutha river, it is a very popular stopover, with many caravans, camper vans and motorhomes enjoying the tranquillity with us. The Clutha Gold Trail cycleway passes by the edge of the camp on it’s way to Lawrence.
08/03/2022
In 1861 Gabriel Read discovered gold in a valley three kilometres north of Lawrence. This was not the first discovery of gold in New Zealand, but the quantity of gold at this site was sufficient to spur the first major gold rush in New Zealand. Known as Gabriels Gully Historic Reserve, it was to this destination we were headed today, parking beside Greys Dam at the idyllic picnic and camping area.
Walking along the bush clad Gabriels Gully interpretation walk, information panels along the way give explanations of mining relics and the mining history of Gabriels Gully which lasted until 1933. About 370,000 ounces of gold were recovered by individual miners working by hand in 1861 and 1862. After this, more technology was needed to extract the gold, including blasting, sluicing, hydraulic elevating and stamping batteries, requiring huge quantities of water. Water races were dug to channel this precious resource from rivers and streams as many as 64 kilometres away to create a staggering total network of 872 kilometres. A further testament to the extraordinary lengths man will go to in the quest for gold. The spoil and tailings created have raised the valley floor by fifty metres.
This was a fascinating stop on our journey, satisfying our curiosity about this place and giving us a deeper understanding of New Zealand’s history. Very pleased we made the effort.
09/03/2022
Shortly after departing from Gabriels Gully and Lawrence we stopped for a quick walk through the 434 metre long Big Tunnel Hill railway tunnel which was part of the decommissioned Lawrence to Roxburgh railway line. It is now used by cyclists and walkers on the Clutha Gold Cycle Trail.
Todays destination looked interesting so we went there, Whisky Gully, about two kilometres from Tapanui in the Blue Mountains. From the parking area there are several tracks in this bush reserve from short walks to tramping routes. Tapanui is well known for The Tapanui Flu, a mysterious condition which was described after a number of people in the town displayed debilitating fatigue in the early 1980s. The condition has since been diagnosed as Chronic Fatigue Syndrome.
Before dinner we took the short well formed Whisky Gully track plus the track to the West Otago lookout where we sat and watched the early evening sun over Tapanui.
10/03/2022
Spent a couple of hours this morning walking to the first waterfall, and back, along the southern end of the Blue Mountains tramping track. The track description as steep and narrow, was proven to be well described and sturdy footwear is advised for this return walk of five kilometres. In our experience, this walk is one of the best bush walks we have done, weaving through the lush native forest with the biggest Beech trees we have ever seen. A real gem and thoroughly recommended.
We had intended travelling to Mandeville today. However a couple of local lads gave us a tip and directions to a camping area on the banks of the Mataura River, claimed to be the best Brown Trout fly fishing river in New Zealand. Job done!
11/03/2022
A fiery start to the day with a spectacular sunrise colouring the landscape and the Mataura River.
Moved to Mandeville free camping area. Nothing more to report.
12/03/2022
After waiting for the strong winds to abate we travelled to Gore via back roads that took us around the Hokonui Hills and past Dolamore Park recreation area, with it’s 95 hectares of podocarp forest, exotic gardens and expansive lawned areas. A quick drive round inspection and we agreed it would be a great place to stay longer, next time we are passing. Leaving state highway one at Mataura we were bound for the south eastern corner of Southland. Although we have been through The Catlins several times, (March 2019) we have not thoroughly explored the corner of Southland at the southern end of The Catlins. So, our first stop was at Waipohatu DOC Conservation Area. Time to walk the short Forest Walk, an excellent wheel chair accessible track through some prime lowland rain forest, before settling in for the night.
13/03/2022
Got a bit more serious today, donning our tramping boots for the Waipohatu Stream Waterfalls Track. Once again, a superb walk through lush rain forest equal to the Whisky Gully Falls Track. A reasonably well formed track with good markers, damp and muddy in places with some steeper sections being a little slippery. Don’t take Grandma. Otherwise, well worth the effort, an excellent track.
Following lunch we moved on to Waikawa free camping area on the shore of Waikawa Harbour, a tidal estuary. Pleasant enough with a large grassed area where the Oyster Catchers congregate to wait for the tide to recede, a small stand of native forest and views u to the Waikawa Harbour. Good tidy facilities but little to do here for us.
14/03/2022
Our next destination took us back to the sea at Fortrose. This small township is located at the outfall of Toetoes Harbour, the estuary of both the Mataura River and Titiroa Stream. A perfect day for a walk in the sea air along the estuary shore - the Oyster Catchers are waiting for the tide to recede here too – along the cliff tops and onto the beach, large waves breaking on the headlands. Blue ocean, spectacular beaches, a lone shag atop his own rock pillar and a large natural arch. Wading and water birds abundant including Royal Spoonbills and a brilliant sunset to finish the day off. Pleased we explored Fortrose.
15/03/2022
Waking up to rain and a brisk wind it was time to leave this corner of Southland to reprovision in Invercargill. Also on our agenda was Fish n' Chips from King’s Fish Market for lunch. A memorable highlight on our 2019 adventure and they didn’t disappoint this time.
Pressing on, our overnight stop was the Aparima River at Thornbury. I won’t tell you about the ones that got away.
16/03/2022
Moved to Riverton Holiday Park and Camping Ground after a morning fishing, to catch up on domestic chores and prepare for the road ahead. Only time for a quick stroll down to the fishing boat wharves, but we had a good look around Riverton when we were here in 2019.
17/03/2022
The fresh easterly winds of the last two days were forecast to persist for today and most of the next five days. Our destination today was Colac Bay, a wide bay about ten kilometres to the west of Riverton, on the south coast of Southland with a sweeping five kilometre long sandy beach. Parked at the western end of the bay left us very exposed to the wind. However, we dressed for the conditions and ventured out for a couple of relatively short walks out along the rocky shore towards Oraka Point and later along the beach in the other direction towards Colac Bay settlement.
Considering we were effectively in the Southern Ocean here, wind is to be expected. Many of the trees in this area tell the story of the relentless nature of the wind, particularly the west winds of the Roaring Forties.
That said, Colac Bay was a pleasant place to stay, with ample parking area right at the beach head and would be even more enjoyable in fairer weather.
18/03/2022
Waking up to thick fog and a cold wind from the north was not an encouraging start to the day. However, after tidying up and getting on our way, we broke through into clear blue skies and sunshine a mere two kilometres along the road. Curiosity made us stop at the access to Lake George Wildlife Reserve, part of the much larger Uruwera Wildlife Reserve. This large very shallow lowland lake had a large population of water birds, mainly geese, and is known as a stronghold for the Giant Kokopu. Giant kōkopu are also known as "native trout" or "Māori trout". Otherwise, nothing much to see here. Fortunately it was a short walk in.
The weather only got better and was near perfect as we arrived at Cosy Nook, around twenty kilometres further west. What a sight as our destination came into view. This quaint bach (or cribs as they are known in Southland) community set in a small cove amidst the rugged coast of rock islands being pounded by breaking swells exceeded all expectation with it’s surreal landscape. We hope the photographs do it justice.
We have to be resourceful on the road and a farmers fence presented an ideal opportunity to finish drying the previous days washing.
19/03/2022
A short nine kilometre move today from Cosy Nook to Monkey Island and what a contrast. From a rough, rock strewn landscape to a wide, sandy, flat beach. Walking barefoot to Gemstone Beach and back again on the smooth, hard, fine sand beach, occasionally in the water, felt luxurious. Just like walking on our beach at home in Christchurch.
Monkey Island is very popular with locals and tourists alike. The parking areas were crowded, especially as it was Saturday today, with people enjoying their weekend. Three years ago it was so crowded that we drove on without stopping. What a difference COVID has made. A very appealing place to camp with Monkey Island, which is only an island at high tide, just off the beach.
20/03/2022
Monkey Island is thought to be named so, as in the early years of settlement a monkey winch was installed on the island for the purpose of winching boats ashore.
After a quick walk on the beach and climb to the top of the island, of about ten metres, we were on our way with a full itinerary.
Through Tuatapere, a town which boldly claims to be the ‘Sausage Capital of New Zealand’ on a large billboard as you enter the town. But to my knowledge Tuatapere has neither a sausage maker or even a butcher. These days, Tuatapere hangs it’s hat on servicing trampers walking the Hump Ridge Track.
Our planned adventure for the day was to visit the Clifden Limestone Caves. Many years ago we went to the entrance to these caves but had no torches with us, so we only entered a short distance. This time we were better equipped to explore these caves.
WOW!
Emerging at the other end after about 300 metres of tunnels, caverns, squeezes and climbs, and soaked to the waist from wading through a flooded chamber, we were blown away. The beauty of the calcium carbonate formations, stalactites, stalagmites, veils and cascades, plus sculpture like water eroded limestone was something to be experienced. We were left somewhat speechless.
We will leave the photographs to show you what we found below the surface.
Disappointingly, previous visitors over the years had seen the need to deface this masterpiece of nature with extensive graffiti.
Idiots!
Our next stop seemed a little lack lustre after our underground experience. However, Clifden suspension bridge, New Zealand’s longest suspension bridge completed in 1899, is a beautiful piece of engineering, which could almost be considered industrial art. Replaced by a two lane bridge in 1978, it is now open to pedestrians and cyclists.
Onwards to our final destination for the day, Lake Monowai. We revisited this location because we have enjoyed it in the past with it’s short walk through Beech forest to the lake lookout at the end of McBrides Peninsula. This lake was raised with a dam in 1925 for hydro electric power generation.
21/03/2022
From Lake Monowai to Lake Manapouri.
Then on to Te Anau to prepare for our next destination.
22/02/2022
A visit to Miles Better Pies before leaving Te Anau. We still reckon these are the best pies we have eaten. Number one.
Our destination for today is one of the most beautiful and serene places we know of and the purpose of this visit was to experience that again. Mavora Lakes, North and South.
23/03/2022
Over yesterday and today, we walked the South Mavora Lake Tramping Track, from each end to a midpoint on a shingle bar. An easy walk beside the Mararoa River and through Beech forest with lots of birds. Particularly South Island Robins which are characteristically tame and will come very close to you if you stop.
24/03/2022
The morning brought rain showers and wind. Fortunately we had already planned to depart from Mavora Lakes for Lumsden to restock the larder. The weather conditions were improving as we started our journey, the first part being along rough, dusty gravel roads, some of the worst we have encountered. Lumsden is very welcoming to Freedom Campers and provides excellent facilities in the main street, of which we took advantage. Ice creams for dessert after our evening meal from the Four Square supermarket directly across the road. Such decadence. The freedom parking area is on land surrounding the old Lumsden railway station, where there are displays of vintage railway engines and carriages. I believe the two rusty steam locomotives were recently recovered for restoration from the Oreti riverbed, where they had been dumped for erosion control at the end of their service lives.
25/03/2022
Another camp site today, to which we are returning because we enjoyed it so much in 2019. Piano Flat is a well serviced DOC campsite on the banks of the Waikaia river, providing extensive grassed areas spread along about 800 metres, for camping and picnicking, surrounded by Beech forest.
26/03/2022
Another day at Piano Flat DOC campsite. A couple of short bush walks, fishing and generally just chilling out at this great camp site. We highly recommend you visit Piano Flat if you are in the area, with the proviso that the Sandflies can be ferocious.
27/03/2022
Fishing!
Do Not Disturb.
28/03/2022
Today we started repositioning ourselves back into Central Otago after leaving the Lumsden area of Southland. Our overnight stay was at Moke Lake DOC campsite in the mountains above and to the north west of Queenstown. The drive of around thirteen kilometres starts in the urban streets of Queenstown and finishes on a very dusty, steep, narrow and windy high country road. Situated in an alpine basin surrounded by tall, rugged mountains, this is another absolutely prime campsite which we are very pleased to have made the diversion to.
29/03/2022
Before leaving Moke Lake we walked the easy loop track around this horse shoe shaped lake. Quiet and peaceful, such a contrast to Queenstown. We’ll be back.
After two days of broken travel our rendezvous with friends from Kirwee took place at Burton Creek Recreation Reserve on the shores of Lake Dunstan a short distance from the top of the Clyde hydro electric dam. After greetings and late afternoon drinks we began to plan the adventure for the following day.
30/03/2022
Out of bed early and with breakfast finished we were perusing check lists and assembling the specified items together, before driving the short distance to the Historic Clyde Railway Station. Issued with an E Bike and hustled into a mini bus we were on our way to Cromwell with a trailer load of E Bikes in tow.
Our driver delivered us to the Bannockburn Bridge, where we climbed aboard our hired bicycles and turned ourselves towards Clyde along the Lake Dunstan Cycle Trail, opened in May 2021.
Crossing the Bannockburn bridge and cycling round the Bannockburn inlet we were treated to colourful views of the early Autumn leaves of the Poplars and Willows contrasting with the blue water of the lake. This relatively easy section of the trail gave us time to get accustomed to the E Bikes and their different power assist settings.
After reaching Cornish Point where the three arms of Lake Dunstan meet, the views became more spectacular and the trail became more gnarly with twists and tight turns, rocky outcrops, drop offs and clip on bridges cantilevered off the cliff faces over the lake.
Stopping for a short snack break at the bottom of the Cairnmuir Ladder, we were able to contemplate the steep 125 metre vertical climb that lay immediately before us.
No worries on an E Bike as we breezed up to the top where we had magnificent views in all directions of the lake far below and the barren schist rock outcrop covered hills surrounding us.
Onward, inspired by our newly acquired confidence and proficiency in E Biking, tackling the sharp bends, narrow sections, sheer drops and continuing undulations.
The next major feature we encountered was the 85.5 metre long ‘Hugo’ suspension bridge across a large ravine. The ‘Hugo Bridge’ was constructed using funds donated by the Hugo Charitable Trust, based in Ireland and named after the late philanthropist and businessman, Hugh Green, known as Hugo, by his daughter Maryanne who founded the Trust.
One more, less demanding, vertical climb of about 100 metres before the last ten kilometres of relatively sedate riding, passing the Clyde dam which formed Lake Dunstan shortly before journeys end back at the Historic Clyde Railway Station.
We had covered the distance of 33 kilometres in about four and a half hours which seemed to pass quite quickly.
We would thoroughly recommend this E Bike adventure to anyone with a moderate degree of fitness and a head for heights.
Awesome!
Back to Burton Creek Recreation Reserve to recount our experience and celebrate our achievement over a few drinks.
31/03/2022
A quieter day today after our big cycle ride yesterday. Just a short drive to Lowburn Harbour on Lake Dunstan near Cromwell, for a bit of rest and relaxation. We have finally decided that we will travel home via Haast Pass and the West Coast. So this put us on the road west.
