A short journey to a destination we have enjoyed in the past close to home. Ideal as a shake down before we progress south. Lakeside Domain at the southern end of Lake Ellesmere is a great place to relax with stunning sunrises, sunsets and an awesome 'Big Sky' effect.
A quiet night and a small celebration.
Day two.
A sweltering Canterbury summer day in the low 30's necessitated a swim at our next overnight stop on the Opihi River at Hanging Rock bridge. Hanging Rock is a bit underwhelming but the swimming hole was superb. Passed the location where Richard Pearse became the first citizen of the British Empire to crash land an airplane.
Day three.
A short trip today to Lake Opuha.
This man made lake was completed in 1998 and is used for agricultural irrigation water storage and a small power generating station. The dam project made the headlines during construction, failing due to heavy rain in 1997. This massive discharge of water caused catastrophic damage and flooding to the Opuha and Opihi rivers. Now, 20 years later, it is a valuable commercial and recreational resource to South Canterbury.There are three picnicing and camping areas on the lake of which, we spent the night at the north camp. Very pleasant until a brisk southerly wind change cooled the day and roughened the lake. Sara was on camera duties for the day.
Day four.
Two churches in a day.
On route from Lake Opuha to Lake Tekapo via Burkes Pass we had to stop to look at Saint Patricks Union Church which caught our eyes as we drove by. Built in 1872, it is the oldest surviving Union church in New Zealand and very quaint.
Arriving at Lake Tekapo we found refuge from the tourist madness at the NZMCA campsite on the shores of the lake.
Our afternoon was taken up by what we envisaged was going to be a shortish walk into Tekapo town and a loop track to Tekapo power station. Eleven kilometres and four hours later, we arrived back at our home on wheels. However, we were rewarded with spectacular views of the characteristic blue glacial and snow fed lake and surrounding mountains.
A visit to Tekapo wouldn't be complete without photographing the iconic Border Collie sheepdog memorial to the pioneering sheep dogs of the MacKenzie Country.
And the second church, the Church of the Good Shepherd, also synonymous with Lake Tekapo.
But why did I photograph it back to front with out the stunning views as a back drop?
Tourists, hundreds of them, mainly Asians on Bus Tours. Tekapo is full to over flowing with tourists which we suppose makes sense as it is a tourist town. However, I am not sure the local residents would see it that way.
To quote The Eagles;
'Call some place paradise, kiss it goodbye.'
Day five.
A short distance travelled today as we moved on to Lake Alexandrina and Lake McGregor which lie side by side like an oasis on the barren Mackenzie Basin to the North of Tekapo township. Formed by Glacial erosion, Lake Alexandrina is 7.2 kilometres long, surrounded by willows and very picturesque. There are two Bach communities on it's shores and a large number of permanent caravans, obviously a very popular holiday location. Lake McGregor is a smaller version, also very popular, particularly with tourists as the camp ground was full and overflowing into the paddock alongside.
On our way we passed the signposted 'Peninsula Walkway' where we stopped and made the short 30 minute stroll to take in the expansive view of the top of Lake Tekapo. Once again the vista was dominated by the surreal turquoise blue of the lake which is caused by Rock Flour suspended in the lake water. Rock Flour is formed by the glaciers from which the lake is fed, grinding the bedrock into an extremely fine powder.
Day six.
From Lake McGregor we returned to Tekapo township to walk the Mount John Walkway. Starting beside the lake in Tekapo, the track climbs about 300 metres to reach the summit and the site of the University of Canterbury, Mount John Observatory. Spectacular views once again made it hard not to point the camera at them.
Leaving Lake Tekapo behind us our next destination was Lake Pukaki, another glacial formed and fed lake. Our route was not by the usual State Highway 8 but across country on the Braemar Station road. Then up the lake to take in the imposing view of Mount Cook, New Zealand's highest mountain at 3724 metres altitude. The snow capped mountain to the right of the following photograph.
From the head of the lake at Mount Cook Station we returned back to State Highway 8 passing the Tekapo B power station on the way. A great side trip, if not rather dusty. Thanks for the tip Diederik.
One last glimpse up Lake Pukaki to Mount Cook before our final destination for the night, Lake Poaka.
Day seven.
Having had a pleasant evening yesterday and a quiet night we spent today parked by the lake relaxing, fishing and walking. Lake Poaka is administered by the Department of Conservation and is being restored as a wetland conservation area with the removal of large numbers of exotic trees and plants which have overgrown the lake edges and islands. There is plenty of room at the camp site and it proved to be very popular with tourists and locals.
Day eight.
After another peaceful night at Lake Poaka an early start was required to get in some fishing before we moved on.
I have never known a waterway with so many decent sized fish so visible and so dificult to catch, as Lake Poaka. However, persistence paid off and a feisty 2 pound Rainbow Trout was the reward. There is also the added bonus that the campsite is right beside the Pukaki hydro canal, known for it's monstrous trout. However, to me they are just legend as the best I could produce was two rather small fish of about 1 pound in size. Definitely on our list of places for a return visit.
Lunch, then a short drive to Twizel, a town established in the late 1960's to house construction workers on the Upper Waitaki Hydroelectric Scheme. Twizel is now a tourism service town and popular holiday location, boosted by the nearby Lake Ruataniwha which was created as part of the Hydroelectric scheme. The lake is used for a number of aquatic recreational activities including major rowing events. Our destination was Lake Ruataniwha Holiday Park right beside the lake, where we could catch up on a few chores and the administrivia of life. But not before we had a swim in the lake to cool off in the thirty degree heat. Trout for dinner.
Day nine.
An early move today from Lake Ruataniwha to 'White Horse Hill' Department of Conservation campsite at Mount Cook village. How is this for a view from your kitchen?
I had forgotten how spectacular this place is. Words don't do it justice so I'll let the photographs do the talking.
Mueller Glacier terminal lake.
Hooker Glacier terminal lake.
Another day exploring here tomorrow. The only downside is the hundreds of foreign tourists everywhere you look which doesn't seem right in this pristine wilderness area.
Day ten.
Today, an early wakeup call this morning as we were roused by the sound of two Keas on the roof of our motorhome trying to remove parts of the solar power componentry. A walk to Kea Point, ironically there were no Keas there. A bike ride to the village to walk the Govenors Bush circuit and cycle back to the camp. As with yesterday, everywhere you look the scene is dominated by either Mount Cook or Mount Sefton.
Day eleven.
Packed up promptly and got on the road to the Tasman Valley to see the Tasman Glacier before leaving the Mount Cook area. We weren't disappointed. More overwhelmingly big scenery. It is becoming hard to fit it all in our heads. There had very recently been a major calving event at the face of the glacier which had filled the entire lower end of the glacier lake with icebergs. We were so lucky to have experienced this event as they are extremely rare at this magnitude and we were told the ice would melt quite rapidly. We left Mount Cook blown away by the beauty and scale of the area, but pleased to be moving away from the crowds of tourists. We will be back!
After a final stop to admire the view of Mount Cook cross Lake Pukaki and a short stop in Twizel to purchase some provisions, it was time to head to Lake Middleton DOC campsite for the night.
Day twelve.
A quiet night at Lake Middleton, which is right next to Lake Ohau, and a good sleep had me awake early to enjoy a spectacular sunrise on both lakes. After a relaxed start to the day we were ready to head past the head of Lake Ohau to Temple Stream DOC camp site. There we had an enjoyable three quarter hour walk round the Temple View loop track through a beautiful Beech forest. On our return we met an excited lone angler from Wyoming. Larry had caught a rather nice Rainbow Trout in the Temple Stream and needed help to photograph himself with his prize. We obliged and after a chat with Larry, and in consideration of increasing wind and rain we decided to return along the rough road back to Lake Middleton for another quiet night. Temple campsite is a large grassed area beside Temple Stream and would have been a great place to spend the night in more favourable weather.
Day thirteen.
A leisurely start to the day today and a short trip to the Omarama Ahuriri River Bridge DOC campsite. On the way we visited the Omarama Clay Cliffs. This natural wonder is well worth the effort of getting there despite the atrocious condition of the access road which was badly corrugated.
Day fourteen.
Another short move today, from Ahuriri River Bridge campsite leaving the Mackenzie Basin to head East down the Waitaki River Valley.
A series of three electricity generation dams and power stations. Starting with a stop at the head of Lake Benmore and a what turned into a very arduous trek in search of trout fishing. Followed by a stop at the Lake Benmore Dam which was completed 54 years ago.
All three lakes are very picturesque with our destination for the night, Lake Aviemore, being no exception. The Parsons Rock campsite where we stayed for the night was very pleasant but disappointingly overpriced compared to many other better serviced camp sites we have stayed at in comparable locations. The view from our lounge window was pretty nice.
Day fifteen.
Further down the Waitaki River Valley today after a late start. Passing Lake Waitaki, through Kurow and then 5 kilometres south into the hill country farm of Glenmac Farmstay
Glenmac is a high country merino sheep and beef cattle farm spread over 1583 hectares, offering a range of accommodation options including campervan and caravan parking. We filled in our afternoon watching sheep shearing and walking on the farm to the nearby river.
Glenmac is a high country merino sheep and beef cattle farm spread over 1583 hectares, offering a range of accommodation options including campervan and caravan parking. We filled in our afternoon watching sheep shearing and walking on the farm to the nearby river.
Day sixteen.
Departed from Glenmac Farm mid morning today to have a look at a few of the geological and fossil points of interest in the Duntroon area. First up was some Maori cave paintings for which a lot of imagination was required. Next up was Elephant Rocks, a collection of large weathered limestone rocks. These were lovely to walk amongst, some large some small, lots of interesting shapes and worth the effort. Further up the road we visited the 'Fossilised Whale'. The two small bone fragments embedded in limestone were fairly underwhelming and at this point we decided we had lost interest in the 'Vanished World Trail'. Maybe it's just not our thing. A short drive down the Waitaki River Valley and we spent the rest of the day at Bortons Pond. This large area of waterways and wetlands is a sediment settling pond for water extracted directly from the Waitaki River for irrigation and the Oamaru town supply. Live Trout are definitely more interesting than dead whales.
Day seventeen.
Beautiful calm conditions at Bortons Pond today and at last a successful morning fishing. What could be better?
Unfortunately following a midday text message we have had to make the 260 km trip back to Christchurch for a few days to attend to some unexpected business matters. Consequently, we won't be posting to our Blog until we return to carry on from where we left off. Hard to leave this but we'll be back.
Day eighteen.
After five days back in Christchurch, business concluded, we have returned to carry on our adventure. Last night was spent at Waihao Box, a place which derives it's name from an unusual structure built into the beach to prevent the beach of moving sand and gravel blocking the mouth of the Waihao River and flooding the surrounding farmland. The present Waihao River Box culvert built in 1910 and overhauled in 2014 replaced a previous structure further north, built in 1896.
The campsite is at the southern end of a network of extensive wetlands behind the beach head and home to many birds including a Kotuku (White Heron).
A spectacular location with the sound of a wild pounding surf to put us to sleep.
Departing from Waihao Box and heading south our first stop was Riverstone and the recently completed 'Dot's Castle' as it is known. This is a private residence and truly worth a look no matter what you think of it.
Next stop was Oamaru and the historical port and commercial buildings built from the iconic Oamaru Limestone. We were attracted to the colony of rare Spotted Shags which have colonised the derelict Sumpter Wharf.
Our progress south took us past beautiful veiws of the North Otago coastline and Kakanui area to our stop for the night at 'All Day Bay'. An absolutely lovely beach with a lagoon full of water fowl, sea birds and waders on the other side of the road. Truly a day for the birds and great to be back beside the ocean.
Day nineteen.
After a walk on the beach at All Day Bay we continued south along the Otago coastline.
Discovered the State Highway 1 bridge at Waianakarua River is better appreciated from below than when driving on top of it. A stunning limestone double arch bridge which is very European looking.
We walked along the beach to the famous Moeraki Boulders which I am embarressed to say, we have never done before. Travelling with no agenda or timeline allows us to stop to explore wherever we choose. These almost perfectly round concretion boulders started forming in mudstone up to 55 million years ago and now get washed from the rock and mudstone substrate falling on the beach below. Why after such a long geological formation process do so many tourists feel compelled to stand on top of them and potentially damage them?
Next stop, Moeraki and Katiki Point Historic and Wildlife Reserve. Abundant wildlife including seals, shags, penguins and gulls are all that inhabit this windswept outcrop since the lighthouse keeper was replaced by automation in 1975.
Karitane is an absolute gem of a little seaside village, very quaint and quiet.
Our final stop for the day was Warrington Beach with a view across Blueskin Bay, a tidal inlet behind the beach. A walk on the sparsely populated beach and a glass of wine to watch the sunset.
Day twenty.
A strong Sou'wester blew in across Blueskin Bay this morning bringing rain and a drop in temperature. Nothing doing so off to visit my uncle in Sawyers Bay for the night. Not much to post except that we are blown away by the spectacular beaches and coastline of Otago. Kilometre after kilometre of them.
Day twenty one.
Early start this morning and off to Dunedin railway station to catch the Taieri Gorge Railway train to Pukerangi. Absolutely spectacular.
Brilliant!
This afternoon we cruised along another 23 kilometres of splendid Otago beaches to Taieri Mouth. The entry point to the Pacific Ocean of the same river we had followed by train this morning. An evening walk on the expansive beach at low tide with Taieri Island, Moturata, nature reserve visible a short distance offshore.
